Cycling in China

My friend was given a bike recently, and I've taken it out for a spin a couple of times. It's a big ugly black old thing called 'erbai dalu' with those old-fashioned handlebars pointing in. When you cycle past people, you sometimes hear' 'look, foreigner on a bike!'. The young people note how old and horrible the bike is, but the old people give you a knowing nod of respect.

The best thing is the sense of freedom. You can go wherever you like, at whatever speed you like, at whatever time you like. Last week I went into the city centre (about an hour) at 11 at night and spent all night riding round, getting lost in side streets, cycling on empty 4 lane roads, just sampling the summer nighttime atmosphere, etc. Great fun. And like the best things in life, it's free.

The complete lack of bike lights, helmets, reflectors, trousers clips, water bottle on the frame, panniers, and whatever else constitutes cycling in an EU health-and-safety regulated country only adds to the freedom and fun. All you need here is a bike (although the bell comes in handy). I felt like an idiot the first time I rang the bell, but you really have to give it tinkle now and then with all people wandering all over the place.

You can go on either lane of the road or the pavement. If you don't feel like stopping at the red lights, that's cool, no worries. If you want to have a go on the 4 lane roundabout in the middle of the city, that's cool as well, you'll be joined by plenty others.

The strangest thing is that if you ride like a sensible person, you will have trouble. If you make eye contact with people coming on the opposite direction, it promotes indecision so everyone starts wobbling around as you get closer and that's when accidents happen. The best thing is just to ignore everything and keep going - people will (mostly) stop for you. It's very counter-intuitive, and I haven't mastered it yet, but it's surprisingly true.